February It is a month to reflect on traditional Northern gastronomy. Round tables organized in Monterrey, Ensenada y Hermosillo with chefs and gastronomic researchers who share their work, tastes, stories and memories.
"The purpose of the campaign INCA Butter is to promote and safeguard gastronomic traditions in the north of the country; since the shortening is a basic input to make the flour tortilla, accompanying the most emblematic dishes of the region ", warns Paulina Hernández, brand manager.
De acuerdo con datos de la empresa, 54 por ciento de los consumidores de la manteca utilizan el producto para la elaboración de tortillas de harina. Por ello la campaña busca destacar y mostrar a las amas de casa, productores tortilleros e integrantes del sector restaurantero y turístico, las técnicas más eficientes para hacer de la tortilla de harina un aliado en su cocina y en su empresa.
"The flour tortilla is present in almost every household in the north of Mexico and butter INCA It gives the families of these communities the possibility of preparing delicious regional dishes without neglecting the daily budget, "explained the directive.
"If it's corn, do not lie to me; if it is flour, nor the hot "-Refrán Popular
"It's a very familiar product for us, it's part of our training and our stories. Most of the people of the north have learned to make tortillas with this butter and this is how we have transmitted it to our students, to the people who work with us and to the new generations, "said the chef Juan Arroyo of 3 oven, in the framework of the round table recently held in the restaurant Mima & Abdiel of Monterrey, in the company of the chef Mima González and the host chef Abdiel Cervantes.
“Hay un refrán que mencionaban mucho en casa: ‘Si es de maíz, ni me la mientes; si es de harina, ni la calientes’. Con esto quiero resaltar el alto significado que la tortilla de harina ha tenido en la alimentación diaria de la gente del norte. El hábito de la tortilla de maíz es algo más reciente, pero antes solo acostumbrabamos la tortilla de harina, y por supuesto hecha en casa”, refirió Stream.
For the chef Mima González homemade flour tortillas are synonymous with home, keep the memory of school days and are also an expression of affection, since the fact of preparing them is one of the most genuine expressions of affection of housewives regiomontanas.
"They are not just part of our diet, they are the center of it and of everything that goes with home-made food. I remember that it did not matter if the refrigerator was full of other foods; if there were no flour tortillas they said there was nothing to eat, "he said.
The participating chefs agreed that each northern state has its differences in the preparation of its typical tortillas, depending on the thickness, extension and consistency desired, but in all cases it is a home-made product whose particular recipe was passed on from generation to generation. in generation and many times consigned in the recipes of family.
"Unlike what happens with corn tortillas, which have a pre-Hispanic origin, in the case of flour tortillas they are already the result of the arrival of the Spaniards and of subsequent migrations. They have an essential value in the traditions of northern families, it was even said that a woman could not get married if she did not know how to make flour tortillas ", she stressed. Mima González.
The current rhythms of life, refers Stream, have resulted in fewer and fewer northern homes in which home-made flour tortillas are consumed; however, in that it is important that these references that are part of a cultural identity are not lost.
"In U.S.A. there are restaurants of the highest level where the lobster style Rosarito it is a main dish in which the presence of the flour tortilla is highlighted; however, we do not find Monterrey sites of that category where an element as representative as our tortillas is highlighted, "he said. González.
Stream He adds that it is regrettable that in addition to the loss of knowledge that has occurred in homes, chefs are not interested in knowing a basic and essential process in the expression of Northeastern cuisine.
"When I worked in a vegetarian restaurant every day I had to prepare several kilos of flour tortillas; However now you see that people come to the kitchen without the slightest notion of how to make them. It is something very serious, in addition to that in the programs of the schools of gastronomy something that is essential in the expression of our culinary culture is not included ", said Stream.
For Abdiel Cervantes, the flour tortilla is a true expression of the richness and identity of the cuisine of the north of Mexico and which is practically unknown in the rest of the country as much of its culture.
"I speak as a migrant, as someone who has come to Monterrey and he has been surprised and fascinated by the great gastronomic treasure that this land possesses and of which we know almost nothing because it is hard for us to turn our eyes towards the north. "You have to understand the versatility, the perfection of the flour tortilla in tune with the culture that generates it; it is a product that matches the salty with the sweet, and that makes it very special. Its qualities are also linked to the conditions of the earth where it is generated. When you are in the Mexico City you understand that you have to let the dough rest at room temperature; But tortillas do not fit with the conditions you expect.
Only when you are in the north do you understand that there are not the 25 degrees of the center, if not the 40 degrees of any day in Monterrey those that give the ideal conditions for its elaboration, to understand what 'ambient temperature' means. Each region, each state, each village has a unique expression and is an example of a society that knew how to find scarcity in the purest manifesto of abundance, "he stressed. Abdiel Cervantes.